THE SURF SEEKERS

Salt-streaked cliffs rise above, fringed with windswept grass and wildflowers. Crisp autumn air carries the tang of sea spray. Waves crash noisily onto the golden expanse of Great Western Beach. It’s October and we’re in Newquay, Cornwall. In the heart of the UK’s surf scene, where tiny wetsuited figures paddle out to meet the Atlantic swell. Rise, ride, wipeout and repeat. Among them are the Women + Waves collective: Rachel, Lisa, Claire, Kitty, Sammy and Sarah. To them, surfing is more than a sport. It’s a shared rhythm. A celebration of community. And a transformative space for women.

Back row: Rachel, Kitty, Sammy, Claire

Front row: Sarah, Lisa

Tell me about Women + Waves. How did it start?

Rachel: I’m one of the founders of Women + Waves. I started it as a little surf club for my friends back in 2017. Now it’s a surf collective for women all around the world. We coach women on how to surf and hold international surf trips. Whether you're eight or eighty years old, it's a really inclusive space of like-minded women.

Kitty: And our main focus is celebration. What women have achieved, how they've progressed. That's the most profound part.

How did you get into surfing?

Lisa: My dad bought me my first surfboard for doing well in school. And a local surfer taught me on the coast of Wales. Back then, it was only boys who surfed. But I met a lady about 10 years older than me. She was a bit of a legend because she used to do all the competitions. That was really inspiring.

Rachel: Growing up in Cornwall, I loved surfing as a kid. The ocean has always been a bit of a playground for me.

What was the moment where surfing just ‘clicked’ for you?

Rachel: When I was about 14. I did my work experience at surf school and I was like ‘oh my god, it really can’t get any better than this’.

Kitty: On a full moon surf in Victoria, Australia as a teenager. There was a seal surfing the waves next to me. And I remember thinking ‘this is it. I’m in love’.

Sarah: I just really enjoy being in the sea. I've always had a fascination with it. I could sit and watch the water for ages, especially when the surf’s big.

How does Women + Waves play a part in transforming women’s confidence?

Lisa: There’s always a mix of women coming together. It’s such a bonding environment. Once you take a few tumbles, you’re laughing it off and sharing moments together. I think that really helps with boosting confidence.

Rachel: And the growth we see is huge. It can be daunting heading out, so we teach women surf etiquette and ocean safety too. By the end of our trips, they’ve got a new lease of life and they're ready to surf around the world. It's incredible. We often see big differences in their personal life.

Kitty: Definitely. We’ll have women stuck in their day-to-day lives and they’ll have epiphanies out in the water. There’s joy, relief and growth on the other side of those changes. It’s powerful seeing the reconnection and healing that takes place.

How do you feel when you're surfing?

Lisa: Like you can leave everything else in the sand. All you can see and feel is the water.

Claire: It’s refreshing, calming. It's just you and your board. And having a chat with people too. Cheering people on as they take a great wave. Even having a wipeout in the ocean is a beautiful sort of thrill.

Sammy: It’s the best feeling, the best de-stresser. And I love how social it is here in Cornwall. You're always bumping into someone you know.

When’s the best time to surf?

Claire: Dawn. Sitting on your board, feeling the ebb and flow of the tide. Paddling into a wave, riding it as the sun comes up. It's so peaceful. A great way to start your day.

Kitty: I love sunset surfing. The day’s stresses get washed away. There’s a strong sense of communion with nature. You'll often have some seals around. It's super special.

Finally, what’s a popular myth about surfing you'd like to debunk?

Rachel: That surfing's really hard and just for people who love extreme sports. It’s not. You’re always learning. You start with a big foam board in the white water and you slowly progress. And you'll get there. It’s for anyone who wants to give it a go.

Kitty: As women, we tend to undervalue our skills. You'll often get women saying ‘oh, I can't do that. I'm not very good at this’. Then they'll pop straight to their feet on a wave. You're so much better than you say you are.

Claire: That girls can't surf. They definitely can. And it’s wonderful seeing so many women of all ages, sizes and abilities out there. Everyone cheering each other on. And you don't have to go surfing in big waves. As long as it's the wave for you and you're having fun, that's what’s most important. It’s your time. Just go and enjoy it.

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